Tutorials, Articles & FAQs > Natural Dyes

FAQ: Dyeing Process

Where can I learn more?
Brilliant Colours on Silk, by Cheryl Kolander, is the best beginner's manual. It includes all the recipes and information she gives in her workshops, plus a detailed step-by-step walk-through, called "Apprentice for a Day." Indigo dyeing and the basics of paint dyeing are covered. The recipes and procedures work for all fibres, and all fibre forms are addressed.

What are Natural Dyes?
They are colours extracted from plants (or an insect, in the case of cochineal), and they are fixed by means of minerals or metal salts, such as alum (aluminum salt), iron, or tin, called "mordants".

Why Use Natural Dyes?
Universities have degree programs in music therapy. Why are there no programs for colour therapy? One reason may be that most of the colours we surround ourselves with now are not therapeutic. In fact, most chemically created colours are petroleum-based poisons. Artists who use these colours have learned to wear respirators when they work.

This contrasts starkly with Natural Dyes, many of which are also medicines. I find that working with Natural Dyes is pleasant and much more conducive to the creative process. I love the smell of each dyestuff. I love pulling the fibre from the Indigo vat, watching it turn from green to blue as it is exposed to air. I have been a professional Natural Dyer for 30 years. As a textile artist, I create beautiful colours on silk, using plant dyes. I chose Natural Dyes because they create the most beautiful colours. It is possible to achieve a full rainbow of colour using no toxic, poisonous chemicals.

Natural Dyes are the most sound for the planet. Chemical dye companies also make pesticides, nerve gas, and other dangerous toxins. There is terrible pollution when these dyes are made and used on an industrial scale. I have seen rivers run red, purple, and sickly green from dyeworks in Europe. Do we, as artists of beauty and healers of souls, want to support such poison and pollution? Or shall we instead choose to use nature's gifts with these life-promoting traditional dyes?

Are Natural Dyes colour-fast?
Natural Dyes have a long and rich history — they coloured all the beautiful cloth and finery of ages past. Keep this in mind when you see textiles in the museum: Before 1856, all colours were Naturally Dyed. After 150+ years, these colours remain vibrant, beautiful, and inspiring.

The colours of silk dyed by Master Natural Dyer Cheryl Kolander are chosen, created, and applied to achieve the same excellent fastness to both light and washing. Hand washing, separately, will preserve the colours as well as the fibre. Some colour can be expected to show in the first wash water; this is normal for hand dye-work.

What are the colours like?
Colours on your monitor will not show the depth, richness, or exact hue of these art colours. All hand dyework has a subtle natural variegation. Greens and purples show some abrajz, while other colours tend to be more even. Custom two-tones and variegation are possible; contact Aurora Silk to discuss your needs.

How long will my custom order take?
Allow 3 to 4 weeks for custom dyework.

What is the basic process of dyeing with Natural Dyes?
Except for Indigo, which must be fermented, dyestuffs are boiled in water to extract the dye. The material to be dyed is first prepared by being heated in water with the chosen metal salt (called "mordanting"). Then the material is transferred to the dyebath and again heated for a permanent, rich colour.

Can I use these dyes on Leather?

Yes, these dyes can be used on leather. It's best to immerse small pieces or brush on concentrated solutions on to larger pieces. Most leather is"pre-mordanted" as the tanning process uses either Alum or Chrome. The classic dyes are: Logwood for black on Chrome tanned leather with Iron afterwards or Madder (or Brazilwood) on Alum tanned leather for red.

If I want to finger-paint a t-shirt with my child, how should I use the dyes?
Follow the dye procedure for paint dyeing. Two additions could help:

1) thicken the dye. A little corn starch (boiled). This allows more dye to be deposited on the fabric.
2) Apply heat. This would be most easily done by letting the dye-print dry, covering the piece with paper towels or clean rag-cloth, and steam-ironing. Hold the iron on the area for several minutes, moving it so nothing scorches.

You will need to check the fiber content of the tee-shirt. Please bear in mind the following:

1) 100% cotton, even 100% certified organic cotton, t-shirts can by international law contain up to 10% of anything else, without it having to be declared.
2) Typical t-shirt material coming in from China, labeled 100% organic cotton, is neither 100% organic grown, nor 100% cotton
3) Lycra is the most common additive to t-shirt material. Lycra is rubber, dissolved in caustic chemicals that are closely related to some of the most dangerous nerve-toxins and pesticides currently produced. These compounds, in the Chinese latex-laced cottons I have had personal contact with, are not well washed out, or they still out-gas even after washing, for I, and all my staff have been poisoned by small exposures to grey goods.
4) Lycra, which may make up to 50% by volume of the so-called 100% organic cotton yarn, does not take natural dyes.
5) Other surface coatings that render the cotton “stain resistant” are quite common, do not have to be noted on the label, also are quite toxic to the wearer, and also do not take dye.

I recommend Dharma Trading Co as a source for 100% organic cotton t-shirts made in the USA by a Texas farmers co-op.

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