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Tutorials, Articles & FAQs > Natural Dyes

FAQ: Mordants & Natural Dyes

How do your natural dyes compare to Earthues?

According to tests I have done, that company sells synthetic dyes disguised as "Natural Extracts"; they are poison.  Even the term "hue" means that while the color may appear to be similar, the actual pigment (dye) is different or adulterated. 

Are any of your dyes from pesticide free or wild-crafted sources?

All of them are!  They are the finest and purest on the planet.

I feel like natural dyes are probably safer than fiber reactive synthetic dyes.  What do you know about this? - It seems controversial.  Do you know of any proof that natural dyes are safer? Do you think it is horrible for our bodies to have synthetic dyed fabric on them?

Synthetic dyes are poisonous; natural dyes are used world wide as medicines.  The only controversy is due to lies by the synthetic dye industry, AKA "big oil".  Synthetic dyes are petroleum based and produced from tar, the most poisonous substrate on the planet.  Please read The Ecology of Colours and my other tutorials and articles.  

Can I use your dyes to make soap/candles/etc?
We carry only one dye that is soluble in oil or fat, which gives a bright orange, Annatto (Bixa). The rest of our dyes are water-soluble. If you can find Alkanet, an herb, it will give violet shading into pinks, depending on pH.

All the regular dyes just need to be boiled in water to make the extract, but I don't know what happens when fat is added. It may separate, or it may work fine. No one has tried it yet and reported back.

Can you mordant (cold method) or dye in galavanized tubs?
I wouldn't recommend it for bright colours, though it might work - I've never tried it. The biggest problem is heating, as galvanized vessels are usually so thin, the heat source might burn a hole in the bottom quite quickly. If you're not heating it, it's better to just use plastic, as the zinc in the galvanizing would dull colours.

What is soda ash and where can I get it?
Soda ash is sodium carbonate or washing soda. Some art supply stores sell it. We also sell it: washing soda/soda ash. It is not the same as baking soda. Don't use Arm and Hammer washing soda from the grocery store, as it is not pure and contains bleach and perfumes.

My colour's not coming out deep enough. I'm going for a bright deep red (think Santa Claus) with madder, cochineal, red sandalwood and Logwood.
First suggestion would be to heat the bath. Second would be to mordant and dye in separate baths. Cochineal works OK as one bath, but the others will "lake up" (mordant and dye combine - but not on the fibre!). Third is check your amounts. For bright red on wool I'd expect to use 100% madder plus 30-50% cochineal; or 100 to 200% Brazilwood (I don't know for red sandalwood, but expect the same). The Logwood would be counter productive to a bright tone, but would help a rich deep tone.

Are your dyes organic?
All the natural dyes are organic. They are either grown on small farms in countries where pesticides and herbicides are only buyable by the rich (and natural dye producers are never rich), or they are wildcrafted, which is de facto organic - even better, really.

Are any of your dyes not suitable for vegetarians?
Cochineal is an insect. All the other dyes are plant or mineral based. Over a third of our colours have cochineal as a component, but I can do every colour using other dyes. Cochineal is used in rose, pinks, plums, etc. I can do something similar without it. It is not usually used in hemp colours at all.

Is there a natural dye for black?
Yes, Logwood and iron, with perhaps a few additions like tannin, catechu or fustic create black. Aurora Silk’s Symphonic Black is double-dyed with more than equal of its weight in Logwood from the Logwood Project. With 12 steps and more than a week to dye, this colour is exemplary of a Master Dyer’s art.

I dyed wool fabric with Indigo and now it rubs the blue onto my skin, did I do something wrong?

Wool dyed with Indigo always rubs; but it will eventually stop.  The dye is electrostatically bonded to the wool and the rubbing of your skin against the wool transfers that bond to you.  Silk, Hemp and Cotton don't do this.  Extra rinsing will reduce this tendency.